four weeks in the
Dominican Republic
a loose route beyond the resort coast
backpacking · jungle · cities · beaches · flexible travel
the kind of trip
We started in Punta Cana without much of a plan. A few easy days at an all-inclusive, then we left the resort coast behind.
From there, the trip unfolded as we went. We moved between the capital, smaller cities, jungle lodges, and beach towns, using buses, Ubers, and rides with people we had just met.
Some days stayed open. Others turned into hikes through dense greenery or time out on the water.
We didn’t know much about the Dominican Republic beyond the resorts. That’s exactly what made it work.
campfire stories
If we had to sum this trip up around a campfire, these are the five stories that always come up.
having a road trip with people we had just met
We started by shouting across hotel balconies. The next day, we were in their rental car driving across the island. Somewhere in Hato Mayor, we got invited in for lunch by their relatives, fed, laughed at, and welcomed as gringos.
the night we were part of something different
We arrived at a quiet hostel in El Valle. Empty, calm. A few hours later we came back from the beach and it had filled with people returning from a “spiritual journey.” Drum circles, strange conversations, and a truly unique energy.
a rum tasting tour for breakfast
Lockdown moved everything forward. The usual after-work rum tour turned into a morning thing, starting with a boozy brunch and ending with a full tasting (and full buzz) before noon.
the local who knew where to go
We went out with a local guide. No trail, no signs, just him, his dog, and a machete. At some point we ended up in natural pools deep in the jungle, completely alone. He’s probably the only one knowing they exist.
the place where everyone somehow ended up
We stayed in a coastal community that turned out to be a mix of retirees, vagabonds, opera singers, poets, and long-term travelers. Days turned into shared meals and long evenings with the most interesting stories.
exploring the cities
Days 7-9: Santo Doming
We stayed in the Zona Colonial and spent most of our time just walking. Colorful buildings, small streets, and plenty of moments where we stopped without really knowing why.
Days 9-11: Santiago de los Caballeros
Santiago felt quieter. Evenings ended early, so we wandered during the day and brought takeout back to our hostel rooftop at night.
Not a highlight, but it showed a more everyday side of the country.
north coast rythm
Days 13-18: Playa Encuentro & Cabarete
Back at the coast, but with a different energy. We based ourselves in Playa Encuentro, a laid-back surf spot that felt simple and a bit rough around the edges. This is where Till took his first surf lesson, while Jackie worked on her master’s thesis at the bar with a piña colada.
From there, we explored the area. We enjoyed a long beach walk to Cabarete, about 45 minutes each way just to get to an ATM. Another day took us down a river on a stand-up paddle board and out into the ocean.
Days were slow, evenings calm, and the whole place had an easy rhythm to it.
landing slowly
Days 1-7: Punta Cana
We started in the easiest way possible. A full week at an all-inclusive right on the beach. Long walks, slow mornings, and a lot of cocktails. It helped us arrive, but by the end we were ready to leave the resort bubble and see something more real.
Looking back, four nights would have been enough.
into the jungle
Days 11-13: Tubagua
Getting to the eco lodge was part of it. A long, winding ride into the hills that didn’t exactly feel smooth.
At the top, everything slowed down. Small huts, dense jungle, and complete quiet. We spent our time walking through thick greenery, swimming in natural pools, and noticing things we would have missed otherwise.
Samaná peninsula
Days 18-23 - Las Terrenas
We ended up staying in a coastal community by the beach. A mix of people from all over, different ages, backgrounds, and stories, all somehow in the same place. Days blurred together into beach time, shared meals, and improvised potluck nights.
From there, we explored more of the peninsula. Getting slightly lost on the way back from El Limón waterfall, or heading out by boat into Los Haitises, moving through mangroves, caves, and small islands that felt far removed from everything else.
Days 23-24: El Valle
We spent a night here. Quiet at first, then shifting into a hostel full of drum circles and strange conversations.
Days 24-26: Samaná
Towards the end, we based ourselves closer to the town and spent more time on the water. Whale watching out in the open ocean, and a boat trip to a small island off the coast.
It all felt less like a plan and more like something we slowly moved through.
our route - day by day
This isn’t a fixed itinerary - just how the trip unfolded for us.
back to the capital
Days 26-27: Santo Domingo
We finished where we had started, but it felt different.
We slowed things down, revisited familiar streets, and ended the trip with a rum tasting that turned into a slightly boozy morning.
A fitting way to close a trip that never really followed a plan.
how we
moved
through the Dominican Republic
We decided not to rent a car and figure things out as we went. Our first ride set the tone. We shared a drive from Punta Cana to Santo Domingo with people we had met the day before on our hotel balcony.
Getting between bigger cities was straightforward. Buses were reliable and easy to figure out, and we used them to move between the capital and Santiago, and later from Samaná back to Santo Domingo.
Reaching more remote places took a bit more flexibility. We took an Uber into the hills to reach an eco lodge, not fully sure how we would get back out. That part worked because of people. We met someone there who later drove us to the north coast and ended up exploring parts of the Samaná peninsula with us.
Along the coast, longer Ubers were still a good option. From there, movement shifted more toward the water. Boats took us into Los Haitises National Park, out to smaller islands, and further offshore for whale watching.
It wasn’t the most efficient way to get around, but it made the trip feel more open, more social, and less planned.
our stays
along the way
Punta Cana | Occidental Caribe: all-inclusive right on the beach.
Santo Domingo | Island Life Hostel: social hostel in the Zona Colonial with a strong community feel.
Santiago de los Caballeros | Whostal: not necessarily one we’d recommend, but centrally located.
Tubagua | Tubagua Ecolodge: eco lodge in the hills surrounded by jungle and access to nature.
El Encuentro | El Encuentro Surf Lodge: laid-back surf lodge a short walk from the beach.
El Valle | Ganesh El Valle Hostel: small, alternative-style hostel with a creative, slightly unusual vibe.
Samaná | Nilka Hotel Boutique: centrally located and convenient for getting out on the water.
Santo Domingo | Casa Sánchez Hotel: central stay in the Zona Colonial with a rooftop terrace.
this route works well if you…
are open to exploring beyond resort towns
like trips that come together as you go
enjoy spending time outdoors
don’t mind a bit of unpredictability along the way
are comfortable using a mix of transport options
value meeting people as part of the experience
If you’re curious what stayed with us most, you’ll find it on the Dominican Republic country page.